Northeast France: Reims and Strasbourg
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| Veuve Clicqout Lounge in Reims: even if this were the only reason to visit Reims, I would still travel all the way there :=) |
I did a weekend 4-night trip to Reims (Champagne region) and Strasbourg (Alsacienne region), which was the best thing to do since I was based in Paris - I saved time and money by going to these two lovely cities in one go. The TGV train ride from Paris to Reims is only around 45 minutes and a one-way discounted first class weekday online train ticket costs as low as 37 Euros only! On the other hand, Reims to Strasbourg takes around 2.5 hours by TGV train and a one-way discounted first class weekend train ticket is as low as 60 Euros only!
Reims (pronounced "Rahns"), June 2013
Situated at the Champagne region to the east of Paris, Reims is home to the world famous champagne brand Veuve Clicqout and the UNESCO World heritage Site cathedral of Notre Dame de Reims (Our Lady of Reims), a gothic cathedral where the kings of France were crowned.
By TGV train, Reims is only 45 minutes away from Paris and last minute discounted first class train ticket costs as low as 30 Euros.
I only had two days to explore Reims, so I picked out a few places to give me time to appreciate them. Browsing through Reims Tourism office website prior to your visit will aide you in planning your trip (http://www.reims-tourism.com/). There are many tours organised by the tourism office and it is advisable to join a guided tour if you don't have the luxury of time to explore the city by yourself. You may also visit to Reims tourism office at the train station upon arrival. France's tourism office staff are very friendly and are more than willing to provide you options for your visit.
1) Notre Dame de Reims Cathedral
This beautiful gothic cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. According to its official website, it was built between 1211 and 1516 (http://www.reims-cathedral.culture.fr/history.html). Aside from its ornate architecture, its stained-glass windows are also a sight to behold. The stained-glass window designs are uniquely beautiful, designed by famous artists Marc Chagall (1885-1987), a French artist with Russian origin, and Imi Knoebel (born in 1940), a German artist.
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| Notre Dame de Reims Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where kings of France were crowned |
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| Interior of the cathedral; notice the several stained-glass windows close to the ceiling. |
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| The famous stained-glass windows |
2. Veuve Clicquot's "Les caves crayères"
Even if you are not a champagne or wine enthusiast, a tour of Veuve Clicquot's underground cellar is great to do. It costs 35 euros, which includes one glass of their premium champagne at the end of the tour! Champagne never tasted that good! You could also buy bottles from their shop where prices are cheaper than those of the Paris retail shops.
The temperature in the underground "crayeres" remains amazingly cold even if it's summer hot outside.
Aside from the process of making the bubbly, the history Veuve Clicquot is also discussed during the tour. It's interesting to know that Moet et Chandon is actually an offshoot of Veuve Clicquot - one of the managers of Veuve Clicquot left the company and founded Moet et Chandon.
And behind the name of the famous brand is a woman! the French word "veuve" means widow in English. The brand name was named after the widow of the son of the founder. This widow played a big role in growing the Veuve Clicquot brand.
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| Ticket of the 35-Euro tour de crayeres de Veuve Clicquot. |
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| The good-looking tour staff of Veuve Clicquot, preparing the champagne for tasting :=) |
3. Basilique St Remi
St Remi is another UNESCO World Heritage Site, a gothic architectural piece less impressive than Notre Dame de Reims, but it's inside has a very serene feeling. Construction of this church started in 1007.
4. Maison Fossier
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| La Maison Fossier, famous for its Biscuit Rose de Reims, has 2.5 centuries of history behind them; the Rose biscuit has been present in the coronation of French kings and is customarily dipped into champagne or red wine. |
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| The interior of the Fossier shop; Bis-cuit means "cooked twice", so this famous biscuit was born out of the baker's intention of making use of the heat between bread batches. |
Useful links:
http://www.reims-tourism.com/
http://www.veuve-clicquot.com/
http://www.fossier.fr/fr/
Strasbourg (Alsacian Region), June 2013
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| A canal cruise is the best way to appreciate the house architecture in Strasbourg. |
Strasbourg is a French city closer to the German border, in the region called Alsace. It is a unique city as it is an amalgamation of French and German cultures. It is home to the European Parliament.
Strasbourg's entire historical city centre (Grand île) has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. When I got to the city centre, I told myself "No wonder it's a heritage site" - I was charmed by its quaint atmosphere, its pretty old timber-framed houses (at the Petite France district) decorated with fresh flowers, its stunning gothic cathedral of Notre Dame, and the "subdued" vivacity of the Place du Marché.
1. Notre Dame Cathedral (Gothic), construction started in year 1015 The gothic cathedral was for me the apex of my visit to northeast France. One of the best experiences I had during my 2013 one-month European sojourn was standing on Place de la Cathedrale (Cathedral Square) facing this one-of-a-kind majestic church, admiring the grandeur and beauty of this colossal work of art, and climbing up its 364-step tower, from which one can experience the sweeping views of the river Rhine and half of the city.
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| The gothic Notre Dame Cathedral viewed from Place de la Cathedrale. |
3. Petite France District
4. CanalCruise
Strasbourg is also known as the Christmas capital of the world as it is home to the world's oldest Christmas Market. Its official website claims that the Christmas Market first opened in 1570! (http://www.otstrasbourg.fr/en/discover/strasbourg-capital-of-christmas.html). Too bad I went during summer. Oh well, that gives me reason then to go back to this lovely quaint city during Christmas season.
Southwest Wine Region: Bordeaux and St Emillion, July 2013
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| Chateau Lagrange, Bordeaux. |
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| Place de La Bourse, Bordeaux; Miroir d'Eau is in the middle of the square. |
Bordeaux
I travelled by myself to Bordeaux and, like my other solo trips to other French cities,everything about the trip was great! But what particularly stood out from this trip (aside from the wineries) was arriving at Bordeaux train station lobby and being welcomed by the sound of a piano accompanied by a singing voice of a random young traveller! A piano in the middle of a train station, waiting for any traveller to play on it - isn't that lovely? I recorded a portion of this singing episode -
I travelled by myself to Bordeaux and, like my other solo trips to other French cities,everything about the trip was great! But what particularly stood out from this trip (aside from the wineries) was arriving at Bordeaux train station lobby and being welcomed by the sound of a piano accompanied by a singing voice of a random young traveller! A piano in the middle of a train station, waiting for any traveller to play on it - isn't that lovely? I recorded a portion of this singing episode -
Before you go to Bordeaux, it is advisable that you book a winery tour online through the Office de Tourisme de Bordeaux (www.bordeaux-tourisme.com). There are various choices- from as short as a 2-hour tour to a several nights' stay in a chateau. I chose a half-day tour of three vineyards with two wine tasting that cost 85 Euros. These half-day tours are in groups of 2 to 8 people and all start at the Bordeaux Tourism Office. I was in a group of 6 from four different countries. The tour started at 9AM and finished at around 2PM, with three vineyards on our itinerary northwest of Bordeaux - Chateau Lagrange, Vignoble Thomas and Chateau Margaux. The wine tasting at Chateau Lagrange was a very good introduction to Bordeaux wines. I will leave it to you to google Bordeaux wine facts, as there are numerous information about Bordeaux and St Emillion wines and vineyards. Suffice it to say that the northwest Bordeaux wines are generally a mix of cabernet sauvignon,merlot and petit-verdot.
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| Chateau Lagrange, started in the Middle Ages then known as the Maison Noble de Lagrange Monteil |
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| Chateau Lagrange property is 157 hectares of which 120 are under vines; out of 120 hectares, only 4 are for white vines. |
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| Chateau Lagrange's lovely non-vineyard area. |
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| The wine tasting at Chateau Lagrange. |
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| Chateau Lagrange's cellar. |
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| Chateau Lagrange wine description |
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| A Thomas family member conducting wine tasting during our visit. |
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| Wine tasting at Vignobles Thomas. |
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| Vignobles Thomas cellar. |
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| Wines at Vignobles THomas |
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| The approach to Château Margaux. |
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| Château Margaux, viewed from entrance gate. |
Bordeaux, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Aside from its vineyards and châteaus, Bordeaux offers other beautiful historical, cultural and gastronomical experiences for a discerning traveller. Half of the city has been listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site (UWHS) for being "an outstanding urban and architectural ensemble". The heart of the city is a crescent moon-shaped area facing the river La Garonne. This area is named Port of the Moon. Click the following link to see the map of the UWHS area: http://www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk/Discover-Bordeaux/Must-See/Bordeaux-a-World-Heritage-Site
Just like other major French and Western European cities, Bordeaux is easy to explore either by foot or by tram. Its tram trains are relatively new and are a very comfortable and convenient way of going back and forth the different historical monuments.
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| Inside the tram in Bordeaux |
1. Place de Bourse area - St Pierre District - Porte Cailhau
Place de La Bourse is known around the world as Bordeaux's symbol. It was constructed for 20 years in the 18th century. It marked the beginning of post-Medieval Bordeaux.
https://www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk/offre/fiche/place-de-la-bourse/PCUAQU033FS00043
Porte Cailhau
The Cailhau Gate is believed to have been constructed in 1494. It is 35 meters high and was once the entrance gate to the old city of Bordeaux.
Place de La Bourse is known around the world as Bordeaux's symbol. It was constructed for 20 years in the 18th century. It marked the beginning of post-Medieval Bordeaux.
https://www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk/offre/fiche/place-de-la-bourse/PCUAQU033FS00043
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| Place de La Bourse |
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| Place de La Bourse |
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| Miroir D'Eau at Place de La Bourse |
The Cailhau Gate is believed to have been constructed in 1494. It is 35 meters high and was once the entrance gate to the old city of Bordeaux.
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| Porte Cailhau, Bordeaux |
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| Porte Cailhau |
2. Hotel De Ville-Palais Rohan- Cathédrale St André area
https://www.bordeaux-tourisme.com/offre/fiche/visite-guidee-du-palais-rohan/OP031AQU033V501HZG
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| Hotel de Ville, Bordeaux; Palais Rohan is the building inside with flag. |
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| Palais Rohan, Bordeaux |
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| Description of Palais Rohan |
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| Cathédrale Saint André, Bordeaux |
3. Triangle de Luxe, Grand Théatre and Quinconces
https://www.grandsudvacances.com/quest-ce-que-le-triangle-dor-a-bordeaux-quelles-sont-ses-particularites/
https://www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk/offre/fiche/esplanade-des-quinconces-et-le-monument-aux-girondins/PCUAQU033FS0003M
4.
4. Basilique Saint Michel
https://www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk/offre/fiche/esplanade-des-quinconces-et-le-monument-aux-girondins/PCUAQU033FS0003M
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| Part of the Triangle de'Or (Triangle de Luxe) where the Bordeaux Grand Theatre/Opéra is located. |
4.
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| Description of Bordeaux's Grand Théatre/Opéra |
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| Another angle of the Triangle de Luxe |
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| Basilique Saint Michel |
1. Marche des Capuchins
http://marchedescapucins.com/
2. rue Saint Rémi
Bordeaux's delicious food
http://marchedescapucins.com/
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| Facade of Marché des Capuchins; t was closed when I visited it. |
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Bordeaux's delicious food
1. The famous Bordeaux Canelé
3. Duck Confit
"The Bordeaux Canelé cake is a small fluted cake flovoured with rum and vanilla that belongs to the wide range of of fine French pastries. To fully enjoy this speciality of the South-West of France, wdiely named Cannelé, it is common to accompany it with a glass of Bordeaux wine to end off your meal on a high note,or simply with a cup of coffee at tea time in a lovely Salon de the in Bordeaux." (Source: http://www.regions-of-france.com/regions/aquitaine/food-gastronomy/canele-cake/
2. Oysters paired with Bordeaux wine
3. Duck Confit
Accommodation
I stayed at a great bed and breakfast called La Halte Montaigne. I felt so at home, with a typical French-style bedroom! And the highlight was the very delicious breakfast with pattiseries from the région! Highly recommended!
I stayed at a great bed and breakfast called La Halte Montaigne. I felt so at home, with a typical French-style bedroom! And the highlight was the very delicious breakfast with pattiseries from the région! Highly recommended!
Email: bordeaux@lahaltemontaigne.com
Website: www.lahaltemontaigne.com
No need for deposit or credit card information; pay cash at the end of stay; 175 euros for three nights with free breakfast.
Website: www.lahaltemontaigne.com
No need for deposit or credit card information; pay cash at the end of stay; 175 euros for three nights with free breakfast.
Couple contact: Therese and Philippe, retired
27 rue Pelleport 33800 Bordeaux
27 rue Pelleport 33800 Bordeaux
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| Un petit déjeuner très delicieux à La Halte Montaigne! |
Saint Emilion (Unesco World Heritage Site)
I made a day trip from Bordeaux to Saint Emilion, which is only around 35 minutes by train, and costs less than 20 euros one way. Although if you go as a group, you may want to explore going by car, especially if you plan to buy some bottles of wine. It's only around an hour's drive from Bordeaux to Saint EMilion.
http://www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com/uk/
First wines landscapes listed by UNESCO in 1999
(http://www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com/bdd_fichiers/file_1428672720.pdf)
The town of Saint-Émilion is a veritable open-air museum, although originally a modest hermitage. In the VIIIth century, Émilion, a Breton monk from Vannes decided to withdraw from the world to ASCUMBAS, the old name for Saint-Émilion. Later joined and assisted by some Benedictine disciples, he founded, not the vineyards but the first religious community that would, some centuries later, become the medieval town of «Saint- Émilion», named after the saint. This gentle monk left his family and native Brittany to withdraw from society and devote his life to prayer. His miracles and generosity earned him a reputation far beyond the valley and he was soon joined by many disciples.
Two thousand years of a relationship between man and vines await you in Saint-Émilion. It is one of the European sites that is most imbued with this history between man and vines. Our landscapes show this connection and are listed as World Heritage by the UNESCO. Discover the wonderful architectural heritage of our châteaux and city, marked with a rich medieval history
Saint-Émilion stone: a luminous resource For nearly a thousand years, between the IXth and the XIXth centuries, the number of stone quarries in the Saint- Émilion limestone plateau increased. Quarriers worked non-stop to extract millions of stone blocks destined for major construction sites between Saint-Émilion and Bordeaux. This quarrying left behind it an immense 80-hectare network of subterranean galleries that constitute a gigantic labyrinth nearly 200 km long. The stone, yellow asteriated limestone, is particularly bright in the sunshine and contains a great many fossils. It is also called «Bordeaux stone» and «Saint-Émilion limestone». It dates from the Lower Oligocene period (32 million years ago).
A GOURMET
tradition
Saint-Émilion macaroons: manufactured for
generations in the pure tradition of the recipe
invented by the Ursuline nuns, who established
their convent in Saint-Émilion in the XVIIth
century, these delicious golden biscuits awaken all
the senses!
Bubbly Saint-Émilion ? The production of sparkling Bordeaux wine (made according to the traditional Champagne method) in the heart of the town has been passed on since 1892 in the shady light of the old subterranean quarries under the XIVth century Franciscan monastery
On 11 July 2012, UNESCO included the Dordogne Basin in the world network of biosphere reserves. The Dordogne, which rises some 250 km away in the heart of the Auvergne volcanoes regional nature park, marks the southern frontier of the Greater Saint- Émilion area
The art of “GOOD FOOD” The local gastronomy derives its inspiration from the terroir and wine plays an important role by lending a unique character to this traditional cuisine. The Bordeaux-style or Saint-Émilion-style entrecote, a harmonious marriage of shallots and wine, is a classic example of this cuisine, but other dishes, such as vine strawberries or peaches with sweet wine, have also come down through the ages. The Dordogne also influences the local cuisine. Eels with chopped celery and garlic, grilled shad with laurel, and white aniseed-flavoured shrimp are also choice dishes that are served up in the region. But the most highly prized of all is no doubt Bordeaux-style lamprey, which can cost more than 50 per dish. This terroir cuisine is based on simple preparations that will astonish you with the complexity of their flavours, for example, try sampling the entrecote simply grilled on vine shoots and sprinkled with finely chopped shallots. A gourmet’s delight!
Te Lamprey, an unusual fish with no jaws, ventral fins or scales, can be considered to be a prehistoric animal. It has not evolved in more than 500 million years. Tis sea fish has been caught in Europe since ancient times.
When we stand in front of the church of Saint-Martin de Montagne, we are at the same height as if we were standing at the top of the steeple of the monolithic church.
19 CENTURIES OF WINE CULTURE
The Saint-Émilion vineyards owe their unique character
to their exceptional geology, combined with a microclimate that
is perfectly suited to cultivating vines, and the ancestral knowhow
of its vine-growers.
The Romans were the first to cultivate the local terroir.
We have to go back to between the IInd and IVth centuries
of the Common Era to find signs of the first vines
(the vestiges of the Villa du Palat and the writings
of the IVth century poet Ausonius praising the local wines).
The vineyards disappeared briefly when Émilion first appeared…
only to make a triumphant return!
First wineyard
listed by UNESCO
Their cultural landscape earned these vineyards the distinction
of being the first vineyards to be listed by UNESCO as part of
the World Heritage in 1999. Man and Nature have advanced
hand in hand in this region while continuing to cultivate the
vines introduced by the Romans more than 2000 years ago.
The harmonious product of Nature and Man, the landscapes of
the old Saint-Émilion Jurisdiction are unique testimonies:
according to UNESCO, Saint-Émilion is «an outstanding
example of an historic vineyard landscape that has survived
intact and in activity to the present day». |
| View from the belltower of |
First order of the day: Go to the tourist offfice
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| Saint Emilion's rolling hills vineyards |
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| One f the centuries'old vineyards |
http://www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com/uk/
First wines landscapes listed by UNESCO in 1999
(http://www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com/bdd_fichiers/file_1428672720.pdf)
The town of Saint-Émilion is a veritable open-air museum, although originally a modest hermitage. In the VIIIth century, Émilion, a Breton monk from Vannes decided to withdraw from the world to ASCUMBAS, the old name for Saint-Émilion. Later joined and assisted by some Benedictine disciples, he founded, not the vineyards but the first religious community that would, some centuries later, become the medieval town of «Saint- Émilion», named after the saint. This gentle monk left his family and native Brittany to withdraw from society and devote his life to prayer. His miracles and generosity earned him a reputation far beyond the valley and he was soon joined by many disciples.
Two thousand years of a relationship between man and vines await you in Saint-Émilion. It is one of the European sites that is most imbued with this history between man and vines. Our landscapes show this connection and are listed as World Heritage by the UNESCO. Discover the wonderful architectural heritage of our châteaux and city, marked with a rich medieval history
The «cultural landscape» of eight communes comprising
the former Jurisdiction of Saint-Émilion was listed as a
World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1999. This area consists
of a plateau, hills, and a plain covered with vines and woods,
crossed by streams and a river, and dotted with churches,
châteaus, manor houses, windmills, etc. This landscape is
so unique and complex that major efforts have been made
to maintain it for future generations.
The Jurisdiction covers a varied landscape consisting
of coombs and rolling hillsides, a plain bordered by the
Dordogne river, woods, but especially vineyards. Many small
roads bordered by dry-stone walls constitute a complex
network among the vineyards. They limit plots, protect vines
and act as retaining walls.
In bygone days the woods and hedges that also border
the vineyards and streams provided firewood and fodder.
A favourite habitat for animals and friendly insects that
protect the vines, these spaces have become necessary
for the maintenance of the ecosystem and help to promote
integrated viticulture.
In the course of your travels you will discover the many
historic but also contemporary buildings bearing witness to
the constant evolution of the landscape and its people: a very
strong religious heritage (churches, chapels, crosses), several
hundred vine-growing chateaux (particularly dating from the
feudal period, the XVIIIth and XIXth centuries), but also mansions,
wine storehouses, vine-growers’ and local houses, and also
the more commonplace heritage (dovecotes, windmills, wash
houses).
Saint-Émilion stone: a luminous resource For nearly a thousand years, between the IXth and the XIXth centuries, the number of stone quarries in the Saint- Émilion limestone plateau increased. Quarriers worked non-stop to extract millions of stone blocks destined for major construction sites between Saint-Émilion and Bordeaux. This quarrying left behind it an immense 80-hectare network of subterranean galleries that constitute a gigantic labyrinth nearly 200 km long. The stone, yellow asteriated limestone, is particularly bright in the sunshine and contains a great many fossils. It is also called «Bordeaux stone» and «Saint-Émilion limestone». It dates from the Lower Oligocene period (32 million years ago).
Bubbly Saint-Émilion ? The production of sparkling Bordeaux wine (made according to the traditional Champagne method) in the heart of the town has been passed on since 1892 in the shady light of the old subterranean quarries under the XIVth century Franciscan monastery
On 11 July 2012, UNESCO included the Dordogne Basin in the world network of biosphere reserves. The Dordogne, which rises some 250 km away in the heart of the Auvergne volcanoes regional nature park, marks the southern frontier of the Greater Saint- Émilion area
The art of “GOOD FOOD” The local gastronomy derives its inspiration from the terroir and wine plays an important role by lending a unique character to this traditional cuisine. The Bordeaux-style or Saint-Émilion-style entrecote, a harmonious marriage of shallots and wine, is a classic example of this cuisine, but other dishes, such as vine strawberries or peaches with sweet wine, have also come down through the ages. The Dordogne also influences the local cuisine. Eels with chopped celery and garlic, grilled shad with laurel, and white aniseed-flavoured shrimp are also choice dishes that are served up in the region. But the most highly prized of all is no doubt Bordeaux-style lamprey, which can cost more than 50 per dish. This terroir cuisine is based on simple preparations that will astonish you with the complexity of their flavours, for example, try sampling the entrecote simply grilled on vine shoots and sprinkled with finely chopped shallots. A gourmet’s delight!
Te Lamprey, an unusual fish with no jaws, ventral fins or scales, can be considered to be a prehistoric animal. It has not evolved in more than 500 million years. Tis sea fish has been caught in Europe since ancient times.
When we stand in front of the church of Saint-Martin de Montagne, we are at the same height as if we were standing at the top of the steeple of the monolithic church.
19 CENTURIES OF WINE CULTURE
22 shops, 30 restaurants,
101 accommodations After a day discovering Saint-Émilion, you can take advantage of a wide range of accommodation: a charming hotel, a comfortable guest house, a delightful furnished flat, or an attractive campsite. The choice is up to you!
(to be written)
Western France: Nantes, July 2013
(to be written)
South France (July 2014)
Lyon,France's Gastronomical Capital
Avignon: The Old Papal Enclave
The French Riviera: Nice-Cannes-Antibes- Eze-Monaco
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